⚡ Sydney's Pump Specialists Since 1985
✉ info@sewerpumpservices.com.au · 📍 Based in the Sutherland Shire · Servicing Greater Sydney
Stormwater pump installation · Sydney

Stormwater pump installation

Basements, carparks and low-lying ground across Sydney — where water can't drain away by gravity, we install the system that moves it. Single and dual-pump setups sized to the duty, with the valves, floats and electrical set up to last. Pump specialists since 1985.

PIT TO PANELPump, valves and electrical — one job
SIZED TO DUTYMatched to the pit, not the shelf
SINCE 1985Stormwater pump specialists
Planning a system? Call us
📏Pumps sized to the duty, on site
Pump-side electrical connected in-house
🛡️NSW licensed & fully insured
🏠Pump specialists since 1985

The system that moves water gravity can't

Some sites sit too low to drain on their own. Below the street main, down a slope, in a basement or carpark — surface and ground water collects with nowhere to fall to. The only way it leaves is to be lifted up and out, and that's the job a stormwater pump system does.

Stormwater is its own discipline. The water's cleaner than sewage, but it carries silt, leaf litter and grit, and it doesn't trickle in evenly — it surges during rain and seeps through the pit between storms. A system that's right for it is matched to that load: the right pump type, sized to the inflow, set up so the floats, valves and electrical all hold up under a downpour.

We've installed and serviced stormwater systems across Sydney since 1985 — homes, strata basements and commercial carparks. It's a big part of what we do, and the difference between a system that runs quietly for years and one that fails on the first heavy weekend is almost always in how it was put in.

A stormwater pump pit with white PVC pipework, a brass gate valve, a red float and the cabling coiled and tied back clear of the water
A stormwater pit set up the way we leave it — the float clear to swing and the cabling coiled and tied back out of the water.

When you need a stormwater pump

It comes down to one thing — water that can't get away on its own. Here's where that happens.

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Below the street main

Where the property sits lower than the council stormwater line, water can't drain away by gravity. A pump lifts it up and out — the only way surface and ground water leaves the site.

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Basements & carparks

Below-ground levels collect water from ramps, drains and seepage with nowhere to fall to. A pump system in a sump keeps the level down and the floor dry through every storm.

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Sub-floor & low-lying ground

Houses cut into a slope or built over a high water table take on ground water through the sub-floor. A pump pit and a sized pump keep it from pooling under the house.

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Run-off that overruns the drains

Driveways, courtyards and flat ground that flood faster than the gravity drains can clear them. A pump moves the surge that the drains alone can't keep up with.

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Replacing a system past its day

An old pump short-cycling, an undersized unit that never catches up, or one oversized for the pit it's sitting in — a fresh install sized to the actual load, not the one it had decades ago.

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Strata & commercial sites

Unit blocks, commercial basements and shared carparks where a stoppage floods more than one property. Usually a dual-pump system.

Strata, commercial and shared sites usually need a dual-pump system — see our strata pump services for how we work with buildings.

What a fresh install looks like

The same pit, before and after. The original setup had the check valves stacked on a double union on the vertical — and start-up torque slowly worked that union loose every cycle, so the pumps crept and crawled across the pit floor as they ran. We stripped it back and reconfigured it: valves and unions moved onto the horizontal where they seat properly and can't unscrew themselves, the pumps locked down, and the floats reset with room to swing.

Before Two old corroded submersible pumps sitting low in a dark pit, the discharge turning up through aging white PVC pipework
Before — the old pumps sitting low in a dark pit, the discharge turning up off tired pipework.
After The same pit reconfigured with new white PVC, brass non-return valves and unions on the horizontal runs, and water moving through the pit
After — the same pit reconfigured: new pipework, brass valves and unions on the horizontal, water moving cleanly.

How we set a stormwater system up

The parts can all be good and the job still fail early if it's the wrong size or set up wrong. A few things we hold to on every install — and the kind of thing we get called out to fix on the ones that weren't.

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Sized to the duty — both ways

A stormwater pump has to push against the head and keep up with the inflow, including the first-storm surge. Undersized, it runs flat-out and never catches up. But oversized is just as common a fault — we routinely find 1.5kW pumps dropped into basements 3 metres below the street, where they empty the pit in seconds and short-cycle themselves to an early grave — which isn't ideal either. We size to the actual duty, on site, so it's matched to the pit rather than over- or under-gunned.

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Check valves on the horizontal

The non-return valve and union belong on a horizontal run, where gravity swings the valve cleanly shut against its seat. Put it on the vertical and it either hangs partly open — no real backflow protection — or slams shut as the pump stops, the bang you hear as water hammer, which beats up the valve and pipework over time. On the horizontal it seats properly and stays serviceable.

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Floats fixed at two points, room to swing

We hang the floats off two separate fixed points so each one swings through its full range with nothing in the way — not dangling off the cabling where it fouls the pipework or hangs up on the pump. A float that can't move freely is the same as no float: the pump never starts, or never stops.

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Sat on a solid base, not bricks or bare floor

Stormwater carries silt and grit that settles and lies dormant on the pit floor between storms. A pump sitting straight on that floor — or balanced on a couple of bricks — sits in the silt that gets drawn into the impeller, on a base that can rock under the pump's start-up kick. We set ours on a concrete slab or a thick paver: up clear of the settled debris, on a wide, flat, heavy base that doesn't shift.

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A bleed hole so it doesn't air-lock

A small relief hole drilled in the discharge below the non-return valve, so trapped air can escape and the pump primes instead of sitting there running on an air pocket. Without it a pump can fill the line with air and push nothing — the pit climbs while the motor runs. Not every installer drills one; we do it as standard.

Electrical set up to protect the pump

Overload protection as standard, an IP-rated isolation switch mounted clear of the water, and a high-level alarm above the working range. We connect the pump-side electrical in-house under our Restricted Electrical (Motors) endorsement.

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Matched to stormwater, not sewage

Stormwater carries silt, leaf litter and grit rather than solids, so the pump type is matched to that — a vortex or drainage pump that passes debris instead of catching on it. Right pump, right setup.

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The pump itself

For stormwater the pump type is a straightforward call — a vortex or drainage pump, built to pass the silt and grit stormwater carries rather than catch on it.
On brand, it's almost always a Davey, our default for being reliable for the money — or a Grundfos where the duty's heavier. We size and pick it on the site, not off a shelf.

The detail under all of it — float configuration, single vs dual pumps, mechanical vs electronic control panels — is its own subject. We make those calls per site as part of the install; our pump systems explained page walks through how each part actually works.

Single pump or dual-pump?

For a backyard or a garden sump, where an overflow does little more than wet some ground, one properly sized pump is usually all you need. Simpler, cheaper to run, easy to service — and wherever the site allows it, that's what we'll steer you toward, because fewer parts means fewer ways for a system to let you down.

Garages, basements and any below-ground space are a different story. If a single pump fails there, water has nowhere to go but up into the level you're trying to protect — and the damage isn't a wet lawn, it's cars, storage and structure. For those we recommend two pumps with a control board, so the pumps alternate and share the wear and either one can carry the site if the other drops out.

For the board itself we recommend Kenrahn — Australian-made, mechanical relay panels we've come to trust because there's less to go wrong and they're easy to fault-find and field-repair. How a dual-pump controller alternates the two pumps, and why we lean mechanical over electronic, is covered on our pump systems explained page.

A Kenrahn dual-pump control panel with Pump 1 and Pump 2 MAN-OFF-AUTO selectors, an alarm light and mute button, marked DANGER 415 volts
The control board for a dual-pump system — a Kenrahn panel with separate MAN-OFF-AUTO selectors for each pump, an alarm light and mute.

The difference is in the setup

A pump can be the right size and the system still play up if the floats and cabling were left a mess. The small thing that says the most about an install — floats set to swing free, cabling tied back clear of the water.

Before A stormwater pump pit with float cables and lead looped loose over the pipework and a float hanging where it can foul
Before — cabling left looped loose over the pipework, the float hanging where it can foul and hang up.
After The same pump pit with the cabling tied back clear of the water and the float repositioned to swing freely
After — cabling tied back clear of the water, the float repositioned to swing free.

Planning a stormwater system, or replacing one that's had its day? Talk to us early.

📞 0415 210 267

New system, or reconfigure what's there?

Not every job needs a full new system. Here's the framework we work to — though it's a call we only make properly once we've seen the pit.

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Leans toward a new system

  • No system in place — a new basement, carpark, sub-floor or low-lying build
  • The existing pump is at or past its service life and failing repeatedly
  • The pump was undersized or oversized for the load from day one
  • The pumps are oversized or undersized for the basement they're sitting in
  • A single pump on a site that floods more than one property if it stops
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Leans toward reconfiguring

  • The pit is sound and the pump still has healthy service life left
  • The system was set up poorly — floats hung wrong, valves on the vertical, cabling fouling the floats
  • It short-cycles or won't cut in because the floats sit at the wrong levels
  • A single replaceable fault, not multiple failure points at once
  • The pump is the right size for the duty and still parts-supported

If the pumps still have life in them and it's just a setup problem, we reconfigure what's there rather than sell you a new system. If they're genuinely past saving, we explain why and quote it before we touch anything.

Our installation process

Four steps, from the first look at the site to the written handover — no surprises.

01

Site assessment

We look at the pit, the inflow, and the head the pump has to push against — and what's at risk downstream if it ever floods: cars, storage, the level below. We check whether the pit is sized to take two pumps, and whether the site needs them.

02

Pump selection & quote

We size the pump to the duty and match it to the pit — not the cheapest box on the shelf — and quote the work before we start. You know what's going in and why.

03

Installation

Pump set, non-return valve and union on the horizontal, floats positioned to swing free, the electrical isolation and overload connected in-house, and a high-level alarm wired in.

04

Commission & handover

We run a full cycle to confirm the pit fills and clears the way it should, check the pumps alternate and the high-level alarm float triggers, then send a written report — what went in, the test readings, and your first service date.

The credentials behind the install

A stormwater install touches licensed plumbing, restricted electrical and confined-space entry — here's what backs every system we put in.

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NSW Plumbing Licence 456767C

Sewer Pump Services operates under a current NSW plumbing contractor licence — licensed plumbing and drainage work, on record.

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AS/NZS 3500 standards

Plumbing and drainage work is carried out to the AS/NZS 3500 standard family — the benchmark for compliant work across Sydney.

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Restricted Electrical Licence — Motors

Issued by NSW Fair Trading under the disconnect/reconnect framework (UEERL0004). We connect the pump and alarm, set up the control panel and fit the overload protection ourselves; your electrician runs the supply.

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Confined Space Entry certified

Statement of Attainment from Pinnacle Safety and Training (RTO 40496). Deep pits and confined spaces are part of the trade — most residential pits never need it, but when one does, we're set up for it.

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Fully insured

Public liability and workers compensation cover in place across all work, with certificates of currency available on request.

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Specialist focus since 1985

A plumbing trade since 1985, focused on sewer and stormwater pumps since 2010 — the work we do day in, day out, not a sideline. You deal with the same operators from first call through to commissioning.

Stormwater pump installation FAQs

Straight answers about installing and replacing stormwater pump systems in Sydney.

When do I actually need a stormwater pump?

Whenever surface or ground water can't leave the property by gravity — the site sits below the council stormwater main, or there's a basement, carpark, sub-floor or low-lying ground that collects water with nowhere to fall to. A pump lifts that water up and out through a rising main. If it can drain away on its own, you don't need one; if it can't, a pump system is the only way the water leaves.

Single pump or a dual-pump system for stormwater?

It comes down to what's at risk if a pump stops. For a backyard or garden sump, where an overflow does little more than wet some ground, one properly sized pump is plenty. Garages, basements and any below-ground space are different — if a single pump fails there, water rises into the level you're protecting, and the damage is cars, storage and structure, not a wet lawn. For those we recommend two pumps with a control board so they alternate and either one can carry the site. Our pump systems explained page covers how single and dual systems actually work.

What size pump do I need?

It depends on the head the pump has to push against and the inflow it has to keep up with — including the surge it cops in the first minutes of heavy rain. We size to that duty on site. An undersized pump runs flat-out and never rests; an oversized one short-cycles and wears out fast. We see a lot of oversized units — 1.5kW pumps in basements 3 metres below the street that empty the pit in seconds. Neither extreme is about the cheapest unit on the shelf.

What brand of stormwater pump do you install?

Davey is our default — the most reliable for the money, and it covers most stormwater installs. Where a site wants something more heavy-duty, Grundfos is an excellent option, though it sits at the pricier end. Stormwater keeps the choice simple: it's almost always one of those two, matched to the head and the inflow. We size and pick on the site, not off a shelf, and we'll tell you what's going in and why before we start.

Can you replace just the pump, or do I need the whole system?

It depends on the state of the system. If the pump still has life in it and it's just been set up poorly — floats hung wrong, valves on the vertical, cabling fouling the floats — we reconfigure what's there. If the pumps are genuinely done, or the wrong size for the basement they're in, we replace them. We make that call on site after a proper look, and tell you honestly which way it falls.

How long does a stormwater pump installation take?

It varies with access to the pit, whether it's a single pump or a dual-pump setup, and whether the existing pipework can be reused or needs reconfiguring. A straight pump swap is shorter than a full reconfiguration in a tight basement sump. We'll give you a clearer estimate once we've seen the site.

Do you connect the electrical and the control panel too?

Yes — that's all our work, in-house, under our Restricted Electrical (Motors) endorsement. We supply and wire the control board, the isolation switch, the overload protection and the float and alarm wiring. On a dual-pump system the board is what alternates the two pumps, and we recommend a Kenrahn for it. The only part that isn't ours is the property's main power supply to the switchboard — a licensed electrician runs that — and from the board onwards, the whole pump system is set up and connected by us.

Will it handle Sydney's heavy rain?

That's exactly what sizing is for. We size the pump to the inflow the site actually sees in a downpour, not the trickle it handles on a dry week. Sydney's wetter run of recent years has basements, sub-floor sumps and strata stormwater systems working harder than they were first sized for — which is a big part of why we get called to replace them.

Do you install a high-level alarm?

Yes — an independent float set above the pump's normal working range, so if the water ever climbs past where it should, it sounds and lights up while there's still time to call. On strata and commercial sites it can tie back to the building management system. The how-it-works is on pump systems explained.

Do you do strata and commercial stormwater installs?

Yes — basements, carparks and shared stormwater systems across the Sutherland Shire, Eastern Suburbs, Inner West and Lower North Shore, usually as dual-pump systems with a control board. We issue reports formatted for committee minutes and AGMs. Our strata pump services page covers how we work with buildings.

Stormwater installs across Sydney

Based in the Sutherland Shire, installing stormwater pump systems for homes, strata and commercial sites across greater Sydney.

Sutherland Shire

Cronulla · Caringbah · Sutherland · Miranda · Bundeena · Burraneer · Lilli Pilli · Yowie Bay · Sylvania Waters · Como · Woolooware · Kangaroo Point

Northern Beaches

Manly · Mosman · Dee Why · Brookvale · Freshwater · Curl Curl · North Curl Curl · Collaroy · Whale Beach · Palm Beach

Lower North Shore

Cammeray · Longueville · Hunters Hill · Lane Cove · Northbridge · Chatswood

Eastern Suburbs

Bondi · Randwick · Coogee · Maroubra · Vaucluse

Inner West

Newtown · Marrickville · Leichhardt · Ashfield

Greater Sydney

Not listed? Call us — we cover all of metropolitan Sydney for stormwater installs and replacements.

Stormwater system to install or replace? Talk to us early.

Tell us about the site — basement, carpark, sub-floor or low-lying ground. We size the pump to the duty, set it up to last, and quote it before we start.